15 settembre 2005

Acque minerali

Preciso subito che non sono stato in vacanza. Non avevo voglia di scrivere. Forse, dicendo meglio, non sapevo cosa scrivere.
Lo spunto oggi viene come al solito dall'edicola: in allegato con il giornale da alcuni mesi vengono venduti libri dedicati al vino. Poi il vino è finito e hanno parlato di distillati. E poi di vitigni italiani, cocktail, birre, aceto, olio... tè e tisane e adesso acque minerali. Un esempio "esemplare" della sagacia del marketing che guida i quotidiani oggi.
Ma va tutto bene. Anzi fa piacere un libro nuovo dedicato al tè fatto anche abbastanza bene e che si è avvalso della collaborazione di La Via del Tè di Firenze e che presenta una interessante lista di negozi (identica a quella che trovate sul sito del TeatimeClub anche se non viene citata la fonte) e indicazioni su come conservarlo (anche qui viene ripetuta identica la frase presente sul nostro sito e ovviamente senza citarlo) e consumarlo al meglio. Insomma se lo trovate prendetelo perché vale i ca. 8,00 del prezzo.
Ieri in allegato c'era il libro sulle Acque minerali italiane che ci fa ritornare al discorso avviato nei mesi scorsi sull'importanza dell'acqua nella preparazione del tè.
Contiene descrizioni e schede delle principali acque italiane e le caratteristiche che distinguono le varie acque: alcaline, minerali, sodiche ecc.
Non ci avevate mai pensato che l'acqua potesse avere un sapore diverso (cloro a parte) e che incidesse tanto nella preparazione del tè. Provate.
Provate a preparare lo stesso tè con acque diverse per contenuti e vedrete come cambia il sapore. A volte riesce difficile pensare che sia lo stesso splendido tè bevuto il giorno prima.
Provate.
E sopra tutto fateci sapere il risultato dei vostri esperimenti.
Alla prossima.

100 Comments:

At settembre 19, 2005 4:13 PM, Blogger bibliotèq said...

Ciao Andrea
allora un cliente mi ha detto che la più grande esperta di acqua per il tè è una signora che lavora in Francia ( terre de China se non sbaglio), usa per gli oolong la Volvich. Io ancora non sono riuscita a trovarla ma mi è capitato di bere a Bra la Laurisio: Residuo fisso 37, PH 6,9, sodio 3. A Roma ancora non la trovo ma la bottiglia che mi sono portato a Roma mi ha regalato un infusione di Yin Zhen superlativa mentre era senza grandi differenze con il Lung Ching, certo che la leggerissima tendenza acida si vede subito già dal colore, appare molto più vivace!

 
At settembre 20, 2005 10:07 AM, Blogger Andrea said...

Fino ad oggi ho scelto l'acqua solo sulla base del residuo fisso e però mi sono dovuto fermare alla Levissima. Credo sia buona per tante tipologie di tè e di sicuro non ne appiattisce il gusto.
Sempre in quest'ottica sto cercando la Lauretana che è l'acqua con minore residuo d'Europa (solo 14mg/l). Ma è questa la strada?
Tu giustamente segnali un'acqua con PH lievemente acido che farebbe la differenza con tè molto delicati come lo Yin Zhen e non incide sui tè verdi (il residuo è comunque molto basso). Altro elemento è il sodio: con acque a ridotto contenuto di sodio il tè è ovviamente insipido.
Allora possiamo dire che in generale occorre un'acqua minerale possibilmente di montagna, con basso residuo fisso e non priva di sodio?

 
At settembre 20, 2005 11:07 AM, Blogger bibliotèq said...

Sono perfettamente in accordo con te, anche se preferisco la Sant'Anna alla Levissima (però è più difficle da trovare). In effetti vedendo le varie analisi delle acque minerali quelle di montagna ( soprattutto del Trentino Alto Adige e alcune del Piemonte) sembrano le più azzeccate!
Sarebbe veramente bello avere delle schede con l'abbinamento tè/acqua giusta, e se sembra un fanatismo devo ricordare che ogni vino si dovrebbe bere con il suo bicchiere, provate un grande brunello con un bicchiere dell'acqua e vi renderete conto di quanto una cosa che sembra estranea sia invece di fondamentale importanza per apprezzare al meglio il vino; per il tè, considerando che l'acqua è parte integrante e veicolo liquido l'importanza è fondamentale, quindi se facciamo un tè, magari anche costoso, con un acqua sbagliata...abbiamo buttato i nostri soldi.

 
At settembre 23, 2005 10:35 AM, Blogger bibliotèq said...

caro Andrea, ho comprato il libro sulle acque minerali e con mia grande sorpresa ho scoperto che chi si è occupato degli abbinamenti è Fabio Turchetti, mio grande amico e soprattutto esperto conoscitore di vino e di cucina, nel panel di assaggio ha collaborato anche Daniele Maestri, splendida persona con la quale ho lavorato a lungo con l'Associazione Italiana Sommeliers!Devo ammettere che sapevo del loro interesse sull'acqua ma non sapevo nulla che stessero lavorando addirittura su una pubblicazione. La trovo molto esauriente anche se molte delle acque non sono facilmente reperibili sul mercato romano. La lauretana viene indicata la migliore per il tè visto un residuo fisso talmente basso da assomigliare quasi all'acqua distillata, io però mantengo dei dubbi su un'acqua che sia perfetta per ogni tè. Rileggevo Lu Yu e lui parla di acque differenti per tè diversi; indubiamente non ci possiamo mettere a raccogliere la rugiada sui fiori di pesco al mattino o andare nella sorgente tal dei tali però non dobbiamo nemmeno sottovalutare il carattere del tè.
Rinnovo a tutti l'invito di dirci che acqua usano per ogni tè che bevono, in modo da iniziare a redarre una specie di catalogo con delle linee guida.

 
At novembre 10, 2005 9:59 AM, Blogger bibliotèq said...

ciao tea lover, bellissimo regalo! per me tutti, il darj. ci rimetterà un poco le piume ma se non ambisci alla perfezione... scherzi a parte il Pai Mu Tan è splendido in seconda infusione così come il lung ching, con l'oolong i cinesi arrivano a sette!A Terre de Chine, negozio parigino eccelso tenuto da cinesi esperti, ho visto che loro fanno infusioni ripetute sia con i verdi che con gli oolong di 30 secondi! per me sono un pò pochini per il mio gusto troppo occidentalizzato, io amo infusioni da due minuti. I tempi in realtà si cumulano, quindi nel calcolo delle infusioni devi tenere presente questo ( se lo hai tenuto tre minuti la seconda infusione deve essere più breve) anche se su qualche libro ho letto l'esatto opposto. Io da conto mio ho provato in ambedue i modi e sono giunto alla conclusione che gli oolong amo infonderli 3 volte sempre per due minuti, il lung ching due volte, la prima di 3 e la seconda di due, il pai mu tan due volte con infusione di 8 la prima e 6 la seconda....sperimenta!visto che è la cosa più divertente! e dicci i risultati. Scusa il ritardo nella risposta.

 
At novembre 14, 2005 3:22 PM, Anonymous Anonimo said...

Salve,
essendo un amante del tè da molti anni e seguendo l'invito fatto, mi permetto di dare il mio contributo allo scambio d'impressioni sull'argomento.
Tempo fa, mentre soggiornavo in Francia, dopo aver letto l'edizione francese di - - decisi d'intraprendere una serie di test per stabilire a quale acqua si sarebbe potuto meglio sposare i tè che prediligo (soprattutto verdi), conscio del fatto che quella proveniente dall'acquedotto, prelevata direttamente dalla Senna e "ripulita", non era sicuramente apprezzabile per degustare una buona raccolta di primavera.
Fin dall'inizio era chiaro che lo scopo non era tanto trovare un abbinamento tè - acqua (cioè trovare ad ogni qualità di tè un'acqua giusta, cosa del tutto impossibile per ovvi motivi), ma piuttosto il contrario, cioè trovare un'acqua "standard" o ancora meglio "jolly" da utilizzare di preferenza come base per la maggior parte dei tè a me graditi; inoltre vorrei puntualizzare che la mia è stata un'esperienza diretta volutamente ed unicamente alle sensazioni trasmesse dal palato, tralasciando completamente l'aspetto "chimico" perciò senza tenere in nessuna considerazione criteri come residuo fisso o altro. In fondo quando compro, bevo, vivo un tè lo faccio seguendo i sensi basici dell'essere umano come gusto, tatto, vista ecc. non con l'esame della composizione chimica rilevata al microscopio di quel tipo particolare di Camelia Sinensis; perché dovrebbe essere altrimenti per l'acqua?
Una volta riunite, penso, tutte le acque minerali reperibili sul mercato francese e prima di cominciare ho deciso d'escludere a priori: l'acqua dell'acquedotto (altrimenti non valeva nemmeno la pena incominciare), l'acqua distillata e subito un tipo di acqua minerale (meglio bere direttamente l'acqua della Senna) che qui non cito per non urtare sensibilità di marketing. Poi ho svolto la mia seduta di test la cui procedura, per ogni acqua minerale prevedeva: sempre l'utilizzo dello zhong; acqua portata a 70 gradi precisi controllando la temperatura con un termometro a sonda; i medesimi tempi d'infusione (4 minuti precisi); sempre la stessa quantità di tè, peso controllato con una bilancia di precisione. Per il tipo di foglia ho optato per un buon Long Jing, un tè per il quale ho una predilezione personale particolare e che quindi conosco bene, piuttosto che una delicatissima e pregiatissima qualità sempre per rimanere nell'ottica di stabilire uno standard medio. Per ogni acqua minerale mi sono attenuto scrupolosamente a quanto sopra descritto ed alla fine l'eletta è stata la Volvic. Per confrontare le mie conclusioni, giustificate semplicemente dal mio gusto personale, chiesi un parere a Maître Yu Hui Tseng, una delle più grandi esperte di tè in generale e di Wulong di Taiwan in particolare al mondo, che gestisce La Maison des Trois Thés a Parigi e che credo sia l'esperta a cui fa riferimento l'amico di Biblioteq, la quale mi disse che quella marca era privilegiata anche da lei (e anche presso altri saloni da tè, come verificai in seguito); ammetto che provai una certa soddisfazione tanto più che mi considero un amatore, non certo un esperto, pur rimanendo intimamente convito che la convergenza di pareri rilevava più della coincidenza fortuita che altro.
Non ho ancora eseguito le stesse prove meticolose con le acque minerali presenti in patria, a livello superficiale e a primo gusto però sono orientato verso la Sant'Anna (che per fortuna trovo abbastanza facilmente) anche se la trovo poco neutra. Può sembrare paradossale rispetto alla ricerca da me intrapresa in Francia, però sono convinto anch'io che non esiste un'acqua assolutamente perfetta per tutti i tipi di tè; ma sono altrettanto convinto che ci vorrebbe un altro Lu Yu per stabilire che tale acqua di sposi con tale tè. Per questo il mio intento era soprattutto di trovare qualcosa che si potesse "adattare" a una maggioranza di tè, permettendo all'amatore di gustare la propria passione con semplicità.
Sono comunque disponibile a rinnovare l'esperienza anche qui in Italia con le acque minerali locali, magari in collaborazione con altri amatori, aperto ad innovazioni e migliorie rispetto ai criteri da me seguiti all'epoca.

 
At novembre 16, 2005 10:02 AM, Anonymous Anonimo said...

Leggo su diversi blog tanti interventi sulle acque minerali e su quale sia la migliore per fare il tè o, ancora, se sia possibile definire l’acqua minerale migliore per un tè specifico.
In effetti, almeno per quanto riguarda il famoso tè cinese Lung Chin, il cui nome significa “fonte del drago” a indicare il luogo di origine, prossimo a una fonte di acqua custodita da un drago, la leggenda narra che esso dovrebbe essere fatto soltanto con l’acqua di quella fonte. Ma è sicuramente ottimo anche con altre acque!
Ma si tratta di leggende, ovvero di un modo di considerare le cose affascinante proprio perché scavalca la ragione e si affida alle suggestioni dei nomi e del mito.
Tuttavia la faccenda della migliore acqua per il tè o di quale acqua sia più adatta ad un particolare tipo di te, visto che in fondo si tratta di interazioni fra le molecole dei componenti del tè e quelle delle sostanze presenti nelle varie acqua, è un argomento di cui dovrebbe occuparsi la chimica o per lo meno in cui la chimica ha diritto di dire la sua, lasciando poi sempre l’ultima parola al gusto personale.
L’acqua potabile (ché di questa stiamo parlando) deve essere limpida e priva di odore, oltre ad essere batteriologicamente pura e ad avere dei limiti riguardo alcuni componenti. Eh sì perché l’acqua potabile non può essere acqua e basta, ovvero acqua distillata, che addirittura ha caratteristiche di tossicità. D’altra parte provate a farvi un tè (o un caffè, o una tazza di cioccolata) con l’acqua distillata, ovvero con acqua e basta e vi accorgerete che il risultato non è dei migliori. Quindi i sali contenuti nell’acqua, purché di certi tipi e purché non superino certi limiti, sono fondamentali per la palatabilità dell’acqua stessa e per gli infusi o le bevande che con essa si preparano.
Abbiamo detto che l’acqua potabile deve essere inodora. In effetti, tuttavia, l’acqua che esce dai rubinetti delle grandi città, spesso ha un forte odore di prodotti a base di cloro, insomma sa di varechina. Composti del cloro, come appunto l’ipoclorito di sodio (la varechina), vengono infatti aggiunti per motivi igienici per creare un ambiente in cui pericolosi batteri e microbi in genere non possano svilupparsi. D’altra parte farsi un tè con la varechina, ammettiamolo, non è proprio il massimo.
Inoltre le acque che beviamo in alcune città, come per esempio a Roma, sono “dure” nel senso che esse hanno un forte quantitativo di sali di calcio. Questi sali danno sapore all’acqua ma possono causare problemi alle condutture in quanto il calcio precipita sotto forma di carbonato e possono addirittura ostruirle. Basta vedere come sono ridotte le resistenze dei comuni scaldabagni o delle lavatrici per rendersi conto di quanto calcio ci sia nelle acque.
Un modo semplicissimo e poco costoso per eliminare l’odore di cloro dell’acqua e buona parte dei sali di calcio consiste nel far bollire un pentolone d’acqua (basta che arrivi a bollire, non è necessario che bolla per tanto tempo, anzi in realtà basterebbe arrivare a poco meno di 90°, ma sono sottigliezze da chimico pignolo: fatela bollire per un minuto per non sbagliare) e poi nel lasciarlo raffreddare coprendolo con un coperchio per evitare che ci cada la polvere. Bollendo, l’acqua perde i gas (il cloro è un gas) e il bicarbonato di calcio si trasforma in carbonato che precipita sotto forma di polverino bianco. Infatti quando l’acqua s’è raffreddata, troverete al fondo della pentola un bel po’ di carbonato di calcio. Versate a questo punto l’acqua in un’altra pentola facendo attenzione a non travasare anche il carbonato e avrete eliminato dall’acqua di rubinetto buona parte dei sali di calcio, riducendone drasticamente la durezza. Quest’acqua è sicuramente migliore di quella originaria per prepararsi una buona tazza di tè senza dover scendere al supermercato e comprarsi l’acqua minerale (che poi significa un’acqua che contiene sali).
Tuttavia con l’operazione precedente non abbiamo eliminato tutti i sali che c’erano nell’acqua ma solo quelli di calcio, che comunque sono la maggior parte, né avremo aggiunto sali che in origine non c’erano. Il naso e il palato dell’uomo, benché non sensibili come quelli di certi animali, hanno un fortissimo potere risolutivo e riescono a individuare sostanze anche in altissima diluizione. Ecco perché siamo in grado di riconoscere un’acqua (e figuriamoci un tè) dall’altra.
Così acque con differenti quantitativi di solfati o nitrati (nitriti guai a trovarne!) avranno un sapore differente e daranno agli infusi sapori ancora più differenti perché questi sali reagiscono con i loro costituenti.
Poiché le possibilità di combinazione fra sali e componenti di un tè sono praticamente infinite è difficilissimo dire in base a semplici informazioni chimiche lette su un’etichetta d’acqua minerale o oligominerale (cioè con pochi sali) quale acqua sia migliore per un dato infuso, anche se prove sperimentali, in teoria, potrebbero essere condotte per stabilire, per esempio, quanto l’aggiunta di solfati o di cloruri o di fosfati migliori o peggiori le proprietà organolettiche (ovvero sapore odore) di un infuso. Finora sono prove che non ha condotto nessuno, almeno a quanto mi consta.
Un’ultima cosa, prima di essere mandato a quel paese per aver complicato cose (apparentemente) semplici: il pH. Questo parametro misura l’acidità di un’acqua o di una sua soluzione. Quando l’acqua è neutra (ovvero né acida né alcalina o basica) il pH è pari a 7. Più scende il pH più l’acqua è acida. Acque con pH superiori a 7, quindi, non sono affatto leggermente acide ma al contrario sono leggermente alcaline o leggermente basiche (questi due termini significano la stessa cosa, ovvero un carattere contrario all’acido). Poiché il pH influenza fortemente il modo in cui le varie molecole reagiscono fra loro e spesso anche la loro forma (e quindi sapore e odore che hanno), esso è importantissimo per definire le proprietà organolettiche di un tè.
Consideriamo che acque dure, come quella di Roma, per esempio, sono per definizione alcaline (in presenza di acidità i bicarbonati si metterebbero infatti a “friggere” e a produrre anidride carbonica) mentre spesso le acque molli (quelle senza carbonati che non ostruiscono i tubi ma che tendono ad arrugginirli) sono leggermente acide.
Un caro saluto,
gianluigi

 
At novembre 17, 2005 10:43 AM, Blogger Andrea said...

Grazie per i vostri interventi che sono tutti interessanti e utili. Conto di passarli al più presto sul sito del Teatime Club così da cercare di coinvolgere ancora più appassionati nella discussione.

 
At novembre 23, 2005 3:38 PM, Anonymous Anonimo said...

ma quando una ti vende una teira che poi sgocciola, cosa sarebbe più giusto fare?
Piantare qualcosa nella teira lasciare che fiorisca e poi tornare da lei e mostrargliela?
Oppure?

 
At dicembre 01, 2005 5:09 PM, Anonymous Anonimo said...

In merito al riutilizzo...
io ho provato con un the nero aromatizzato (di fortnum & mason) ma non ricordo il tipo preciso..e il risultato è stato orrido..ci sono per cosi dire delle "regole" per il riutilizzo delle foglie? Come è meglio conservarle dopo il primo utilizzo? in base a cosa calcolo i tempi delle prime e delle successive infusioni...suggerimenti? consigli?

 
At dicembre 07, 2005 10:25 AM, Blogger bibliotèq said...

Natale si avvicina e il tempo per scrivere diventa veramente poco, comunque vorrei aiutare sugli ultimi due commenti: se per teiera che sgocciola intendi dire che dal beccuccio cade la goggia... bè è estremamente comune purtroppo, la teiera usata veramente ha quasi sempre una striscia nera che dal beccuccio arriva alla base, le uniche che di sicuro non hanno problemi sono quelle in vetro, comunque esistono salvagoccia fatti apposta e filtri da beccuccio che eliminano il problema. Per quanto riguarda il riutilizzo ( penso intendi la seconda infusione ) si fa soprattutto con gli oolong e alcuni verdi, con i neri non si ottengono quasi mai buoni risultati e con gli aromatizzati di norma esce fuori una vera schifezza ( gli aromi si dilavano nella prima infusione) solo dove ci sono spezie intere si riesce ad ottenere un qualcosa di buono. Sono stato velocissimo, vi chiedo scusa ma... negozio chiama!

 
At gennaio 16, 2006 4:32 PM, Anonymous Anonimo said...

Avendo un poco più di tempo....
Teiera che gocciola: mi allineo in tutto e per tutto alla risposta dell'amico di Biblioteq, aggiungo solo che le teiere in ghisa giapponesi sono reputate per non avere la goccia "di troppo". Anzi, uno dei criteri utilizzati per distinguerle dalle copie cinesi è proprio questo. (Ovviamente non è il solo)
Riutilizzazione delle foglie: per gli aromatizzati neri, chiamare il risultato d'ulteriori infusioni schifezza è alquanto generoso come giudizio. Che sappia io solo i russi riutilizzano il té nero ma loro partono da grosse quantità di foglie in teiere di modeste dimensioni per poi diluire l'infuso, estremamente spesso, con acqua calda (vedi il Samovar). Comunque nel tentativo di aiutare Samantha (e non solo spero) propongo quello che è il mio personalissimo standard di degustazione, quindi totalmente soggettivo.
Tè bianchi: non si prestano se non per alcuni tipi profumati al gelsomino che reggono un secondo passaggio, ma con quantità di foglie più importanti e tempi d'infusione più corti (3mm); il risultato è che si profuma l'acqua, può essere interessante per chi ama i gusti estremamente sottili e delicati.
Tè gialli: utilizzo esclusivamente lo zhong (la tradizionale tazza cinese) due/tre passaggi a seconda della qualità non oltre i 4 minuti, acqua a 70/75°
Tè verdi cinesi: come sopra; per le raccolte di primavera (più delicati) non vado oltre la seconda infusione; tre per gli altri, 4 mm per ogni giro tranne l'eventuale terzo al quale concedo un po' più di tempo, acqua a 70/75°
Tè verdi giapponesi: escludendo per ovvi motivi il macha, normalmente si preparano in teiera e si fa un solo giro, però personalmente, e qui molto probabilmente mi farò squartare, me li preparo anche nello zhong (boh è detto, mi sono compromesso) concedendo un secondo passaggio con un minuto in più. acqua a 70/75°, ma considerate che per questi più è alta la qualità delle foglie più è bassa la temperatura dell'acqua (con macha ci si tiene sui 50°).
Té neri: li faccio sempre in teiera e senza secondi passaggi. (aromatizzati o no)
Té scuro (pu her): si rassicurino gli amici amatori ed esperti, con questi non utilizzo lo zhong. E nessun ulteriore passaggio.
Tè semifermentati: beh, qui entriamo nel regno delle infusioni multiple e francamente ci si potrebbe scrivere un intero capitolo. Molto succintamente, io li degusto alla maniera del gong fu cha; teiera piccola (una Yi Xing sarebbe l'ideale) piena per un terzo di foglie; per il semifermentati al 20/30% getto, come da tradizione, la prima infusione, la seconda a trenta secondi, per i seguenti passaggi aumento i tempi di 30 s. Per quelli al 70% stessa cosa, ma per le ulteriori restringo i tempi a 10s. Fondamentale vuotare completamente la teiera ogni volta, per evitare la macerazione delle foglie. Con questo tipo di preparazione si possono, con la stessa carica di tè, ottenere dalle otto alle dieci infusioni, con alcuni tè siamo riusciti ad arrivare anche a 15 passaggi con risultati apprezzabili. Acqua a 95°.
Per finire tengo a sottolineare ancora una volta che questa è la mia personalissima interpretazione della via del tè e quindi senza alcuna pretesa. Ciascuno può prenderne quello che vuole e se ha trovato alcuni suggerimenti di suo gusto, tanto meglio. Chiudo chiedendo venia a tutti gli amici lettori se ho tralasciato qualcosa o sono stato troppo parco, ma sull'argomento si potrebbe tranquillamente scrivere un libro.

 
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